Pressure on refugees in Tha Song Yang

Child with eye infection at Nong Bua temporary camp (from Burma Campaign document)

I have discovered a more detailed document about the pressure to return to a dangerous area of Burma on the new refugees. As a result I have written (with the subject line above to the Governor of Tak Province (who is apparently a key player in this decision).

Please consider emailing to:
samardloyfar@hotmail.com or tak@moi.go.th

Saying something like this:

His Excellency Samert Loylah
Governor Tak Province
Pahonyotin Road
Tak, 63000
Thailand

Your excellency,

I am writing because I have read in the newspaper that in the beautiful hills north of Mae Sot (Maesod) in your province a number of refugees, including women and children, are being pressured to return across the Moi River to Myanmar (Burma). The area they would return to is heavily mined. The military (both Government and DKBA) have recently increased pressure on Karen villagers in that area, in January causing yet more to become internally displaced. To pressure these refugees to return is to place them in danger, as well as to leave them wandering homeless, or living in temporary hide sites. This inhumane action does not seem compatible with the humanity and warmth for which Thailand, and to your province are well-known.

Please encourage those under your command, and/or your government to keep the promises Thailand made and allow these refugees to stay until it is really safe for them to return, and end the pressure. Thailand has had an excellent reputation for welcoming those fleeing oppressiion and violence in countries around its borders, please show this same kindness to these latest victims.

Yours sincerely,

Tim Bulkeley

Karen Human Rights Group report

This picture, taken in September 2009, shows Saw G---, age 13, who lost his leg to a landmine after returning to check on his family's livestock in Pa'an District. He and his family have been residing in Thailand since June 2009, when they fled conflict and exploitative abuse related to joint SPDC/DKBA attacks on KNLA 7th Brigade near the Ler Per Her IDP site. [Photo: KHRG

The KHRG in a documented report lays out the sort of dangers and human rights violations the refugees in Tha Song Yang District, Tak Province, would face if returned to the area around their former homes. (It was dated 27th Jan but I have only just seen it.) I YOU have not yet written to the Thai government (why not?) you might add a mention of this report. It concludes:

Returning refugees thus face serious risk of injury by landmines. Returned refugees would also face human rights abuses including conscription as forced labourers working on military projects, portering supplies and clearing landmines as well as reprisals against them as accused KNLA supporters. For these reasons, no refugees from the Ler Per Her area should be forced to repatriate against their will. Moreover, refugees should be included in any future negotiations regarding repatriation or relocation.

Fauna at Mae La: Barbara’s first solo post

Not "our" frog, who was bigger and fatter, but a reasonable substitute, from Spiros2004

Things were quite different at the camp, from our first trip, regarding animal life. Tim saw a small snake in the loos one night, and I saw a dead mouse on two evenings in the inside toilet.   Not very appealing but at least it was dead. Of more concern was the extensive noise of rats in the space between the roof and the tarpaulin “ceiling”. Much more than 2008, and increasing during the 3 weeks we were there. Our Danish colleagues saw a very large rat in their room so we did quite well, but hard to sleep with rustling and other noises from them and the geckos . Quite a few geckos too. One kind frequent in Mae Sot and Klee Thoo Clo which goes “gee-ko” was not so apparent but lots of other ones were seen reguIarly.

It doesn’t do any good to get too upset by these things, but I was glad not to meet any frogs until the very last night, and although unlikely to be the same one as 2 years ago, was in nearly the same place and enormous! On the bright side, only one cockroach was seen. Lots more mosquitoes though and I got badly bitten as usual so the routine of late afternoon wash, change into long wrap and apply insect repellent helped.

One morning at prayers we were told the mosquito sprayers were coming that day. For some reason they did not, maybe they’ve been after we left, I hope so as there are already cases of malaria and dengue in the camp. There were fewer cats than last time which may explain the rats, but I am very grateful our overall experience of the wildlife was not too unpleasant.

Today’s the day :(

Unless the Royal Thai Government has been swayed by either the eloquent appeal by the Karen women’s group, or by the number of foreigners (like you?) emailing today is the day they start to “pressure” the refugees to return into danger.

If you have not emailed please do http://www.burmacampaign.org.uk/index.php/campaigns/actions/crisis-in-eastern-burma/write-to-thai-prime-minister

Recent refugees face pressure to return: Urgent action needed

These recent refugees currently live in two small camps in this wild and beautiful area north of Mae La

The Burma Campaign UK reports that the Thai authorities are threatening to force the return starting on 5 February 2010 of the 3,000 Karen refugees who fled to an area north of Mae La in June following a military offensive by the Burmese Army in Karen State, Eastern Burma.

The area they would return to is under the “control” of the DKBA and heavily mined they would face mass torture, harrying by military forces and many deaths if forced to return.

Although the Thai Government and local authorities have officially stated that they will not force people to return, in practice they are applying significant pressure on the refugees to return.

Until now the refugees have been kept in two temporary camps close to the Thailand-Burma border. Many of these refugees have already been forced to flee their homes four or more times.

If forced to return to Burma, the refugees face possible death, slave labour or forced recruitment as soldiers.

The area in Karen State where the refugees would be made to return to has many landmines. In addition, the area is now under the control of the DKBA, an organisation allied to the military dictatorship, which is guilty of committing horrific human rights abuses against civilians, including widespread use of forced labour, executions, torture and mutilations, forced recruitment of soldiers, including child soldiers, theft and extortion.

So PLEASE write to the Thai authorities to urge them not to force the refugees back to Burma. There is a simple form you can use here:http://www.burmacampaign.org.uk/index.php/campaigns/actions/crisis-in-eastern-burma/write-to-thai-prime-minister

I have already written, editing the form letter in the hope that this will make it weigh more, but simply adding your name and address and clicking send is all that’s needed. If the Thai authorities realise that many people outside care enough to post an email they may see this issue as one that impacts their tourist industry!

Transport in Thailand: Buses

Private buses are often highly decorative (Photo by Marshall Astor - Food Pornographer)

For travel between towns in Thailand, unless you spot a great deal on Air Asia, it is hard to beat the buses. We’ve tried just about every variety:

• second class overnight
• intercity stopping bus
• first class
• VIP Government bus
• VIP cheaper sleeper
• VIP privatised sophisticated
• Mini Bus

Second class "Government Buses" are more basic (Same source)

All provide cheap efficient transport from one place to another, with enough loo and/or food stops. Most of the time, if you pay more, you get what you pay for, greater comfort, speed or extras (like on board loos, air-conditioning, blankets, drinks etc.). The mini buses will even stop pretty much on demand for loos or refreshment at the next roadside vendor’s. However, for daytime travel the stopping bus’s slower speed allows you to see more of real life in Thailand. Paying more also makes the journey seem more reliable. Our stopping bus sometimes seemed about to run out finally, though every time the driver and his assistant with the threat of the proverbial “flipping big spanner” managed to coax another 50Kms out of the old girl. As we reported two years back the second class overnight did break down once (until half the passengers got off and walked up the hill to relieve the load), and had its brakes catch fire. Despite this we still arrived only a little late, and the other buses were on time, every time. One bus even left early, since all the passengers were already aboard

There are two sorts of Bus station, those (like this one) where buses are boarded, and country ones where meal and loo stops are made (Photo by Jeremy Burgin)

The food/loo stops on night buses can seem rushed, we would not want to shovel down a meal of soup that fast, but then we chose the alternative drinks. Either way, you show your tickets (which are torn to invalidate them) and get your goodies. On day buses you pay for any refreshments at the loo stops, vendors do a roaring trade in sticky rice and kebabs in convenient plastic bags.

Ticketing is computerised, and you can buy your ticket (and book your seat) in advance, if they refuse to sell ahead of time it probably means that the buses are already full and they are not sure if extra ones will be put on – that was how we got our second class sleeper that broke down. On one occasion a language breakdown gave us a long delay before the VIP bus left, when a stopping bus arrived to leave several hours earlier (even though on a different company) we were able to cancel and redeem our tickets and grab the alternative.

The whole operation is a huge industry with many many hundreds of buses arriving at the Northern Bus Terminal in Bangkok every morning at 4:30-5:00am. The bus stations in larger places can also provide several hours of entertainment as you watch the world go by (or, like you, wait to go). All the bus stations are well equipped with seats and snack outlets, the loos are OK and only 3 Bhat, though they may seem a bit grubby, the number of times we paddled through recently swabbed floors suggests a strong ethos of cleanliness.

Transport in Thailand: in town

Bangkok is a huge city, filled with hurtling or traffic jammed cars, motorbikes, buses, taxis and tuktuks. (Plus one evening we saw an elephant strolling down the main road!) Getting around is easy if your base and your destination are near the main transport lines MRT, Skytrain or Klong. But walking far in a hot humid climate with thick smog, even in the winter cool of 34ºC is not recommended.

Thai Tuktuk

For short distances tuktuks are ideal, cool and fun, just agree a price (25-50 Bhat most often) in advance – in small towns bargaining beforehand is usually unnecessary, but in Bangkok or Chiang Mai it can save difficult post hoc discussions Their size and comfort varies more than the prices should. We’ve seen the extra large ones with two parallel facing seats, that might hold four Thais easily and even four farang with a squash, a luxury semi recliner, and at the other extreme the old small one we could barely squeeze into that, however, took us, without a serious breakdown, to the bus station in Lampang.

Thai taxis offer smart air-conditioned comfort

For longer trips especially if there are two (or three) of you, take a taxi. Ride in air conditioned comfort, and let the driver worry about the traffic. Bangkok’s taxis are metered and cheap, to or from the city centre and our hotel out near the Northern Bus Station was never more that 100 Bhat (NZ$4-5) even in the rush hour. For taxis don’t negotiate, just hop in and ensure the metre is turned on. (A negotiated price, even with cut-throat bargaining is likely to cost double the metered amount

It does help to know a landmark near your destination, or to have the hotel’s card with the address in Thai and a small local map. Most of our trips have been hassle free and efficient, Bangkok taxi-drivers are easygoing and efficient. Most of them. The guy we got from the huge queue at the bus station, despite asking directions several times still managed to take us on a zigzag tour between Moe Chit and the city centre, gradually eastward till finally Barbara spotted the hotel on the other side of the street still it only cost less than 300 Bhat which at 5:30am with lots of luggage was probably better than a LONG walk

The klong, and I think only one is still operating, is quick easy and “quite an experience”. Avoid the rush hour, as dozens of experienced commuters hop on and off in seconds and the boats are REALLY packed. But for a different view of Bangkok life traveling east-west along Petchburi Road (and down to the River) the klong is fun and convenient. Just avoid licking the spray off your face, because probably you won’t copy discerning locals and wear a mask

Under the surface

A few students from the first year class

Under the surface things are different. On the surface: Thai military check points, barbed wire fences, thousands of people who are not permitted to earn money and houses made of temporary materials; under the surface: a thriving market, a cell phone tower (that the company put up to meet growing demand), and a town with schools, churches, mosque and temples.

Three Karen girls at a Christmas celebration

People too. A teacher, invites us round to his house after the staff meeting. He delights in in an unlikely name drawn straight from British tales of medieval dareing do, is tall and fragile looking with big soft eyes and a gentle smile.

Back in Rangoon he was arrested as a “terrorist” suspect and tortured for information  about the KNU. The experience was so bad that, when he was free again, this gentle man decided to kill his three torturers. He calculated that he would be sentenced to three years each in jail, and that nine years of his life was a good trade.

God intervened, in a night of prayer he realised that if he killed the colonel and his assistants he would “send them straight to hell”. Instead he became an evangelist. He tells with admiration the tale of the first Karen Christian, Ko Tha Phu, he had just five sermons but with them he converted so many Karen.

Land of beautiful hill country (you did wonder why Thais call them "hill tribes")

He was arrested again, tortured again, jailed in a small cell with five Communists. He converts his cell-mates, and turns them into a prayer group. Their praise and worship sessions last longer than the Buddhist chants from the monks in other cells, though his new flock balk at 24 hour prayer and settle for just three sessions per day, like the Muslims.

Kawthoolei is a beautiful land of farms and hills

The sweet smiling children too often hide horrific stories. Or have seen things no one should see. This long-running war has produced its share of sadists and atrocities. But mainly on one side. Last time we were here we visited Dr Cynthia’s Clinic in Mae Sot and were told how some Burmese soldiers brought in three comrades who had been injured by mines. The father of an orderly who was in the room was pastor of a village these same soldiers had recently burned. They were not turned away, but received first aid, and passed on (with a sigh of relief?) to the Thai hospital which could treat them better.

One thing is the same on and under the surface, the hope that one day Kawthoolei the “land without evil” as the Karen homeland is called will not merely be a place of farms and misty hills, but again in truth a land without evil, and a home.

Barbara’s Birthday

College chapel each weekday morning

Since her birthday comes in the NZ holiday season Barbara is used to having somewhat muted celebrations on the day, and then an “official birthday” with family and presents sometime later when we are all home again.

That was the pattern we expected this year, just the two of us in a refugee camp did not seem the setting for a conventional Kiwi Birthday celebration.

At lunch our Danish colleagues brought a very fancy cake

The first surprise was during college chapel, when Dr Simon announced her birthday and the whole company, 250 students plus staff sang “Happy Birthday” including a verse about “long life to you”, then the treat, lollies were distributed to all attenders!

At lunch another surprise our Danish colleagues had slipped away, and into Mae Sot, and bought a really flash birthday cake complete with impressive icing sugar roses.

The Cake: Just look at those roses!

The family and I will have to try hard in a week or two to match her birthday here! Even if one or seven too many people did ask how old she was

She was also so moved by the gift of a beautiful pashmina from one of the teachers. That someone who has so little, living in rooms in friends’ houses and moving as their family needs require, should want to give such a lovely present, is very humbling.

Unintended consequences

The beautiful hills of the border country

Today Dr Simon took us some 80Kms in a northerly direction from the camp. We passed through a land of beautiful limestone crags, steep hills and rich valley farms. From time to time he said: “We are planting a church here.” or “We planted that church, a graduate of KKBBSC is the pastor.” This litany continued all the way.

The chapel in the valley, with its huge cross

Finally we arrived at a glorious valley deep amid the steepest and highest hills. There at the end of the valley, beyond the village and farms, stood a brand new, unused church. Three stories above it towers a huge white cross. It was the dream of Dr Simon’s wife, and he drew the plans. It is constructed of metal piping and clad in white painted sheet metal. There are rooms with magnificent views in each arm of the cross.

Looking from the cross over the open church land to the current two small dormitories

The new church and its cross will be dedicated on Feb 14th. But already there are dormitories for children of neighbouring villages, allowing them to attend the school. The elder was an Animist until his recent conversion, now he seeks to convert all the valley. Villagers in such a remote rural area have even less access to resources and education than some refugees, who may have relatives in good jobs in Thailand, Burma or Third Countries. So, access to education, like the cross, is a symbol that the good news of Christ has come to this remote valley.

Many such rural development and evangelistic efforts here, result from local initiatives, sometimes attracting outside support, rather than foreign “mission”.

Burma on the Left (an area currently in the hands of the DKBA a Burma Army surrogate force), Thailand to the right, the river Moei marks the boundary

Senior General Than Shwe and his clique seem determined to eradicate Karen nationalism, they may even desire genocide (think of their response to Cyclone Nargis, which affected mainly areas of the country where Karen comprise most of the population), they perhaps also hope to remove Christianity from Burma.

Looking down the stairwell, the steel construction of the cross is evident

The Burmese Generals might perhaps eradicate Karen nationalism, though there is small sign of this yet. They will surely fail at genocide, as other evil men have failed before them. But they have already succeeded in planting vibrant evangelistic Christian churches all along this borderland. Gen 50:20 (the motto displayed at the jubilee in 2008) springs to mind.